Yes, May the 14th was my birthday. As the 14th
fell on a work day I did most of my celebrating the day before. My host family
very kindly held a party in my honour, cooking loads and loads of food. The
inevitable videoke (karaoke) machine was wheeled out, and songs were sung until
the early hours. It was really kind of Mama Angel, my host mother, and her
extended family to all come out to celebrate with me.
Waking up the following morning, my 29th year was
greeted by the sounds of yet more videoke (yes, Filipinos are addicted to
singing!). After gulping down breakfast I made my way to the municipal library
to meet my volunteers and start work. However, this day was a day with a
difference – the group’s first Global Citizenship Day. Each week, a pair of
volunteers has the responsibility of organizing a day on a development topic of
their choice. This time the two volunteers chose to explore the theme of
“Relative and Absolute Poverty” (for basic definitions of these terms please click here).
The day started off with a presentation on relative poverty, with a
focus on the wealth divide in the UK. It’s fair to say that many of the
Filipinos volunteers (and indeed British) were unaware of the poverty that
exists in the United Kingdom. The high child poverty rates in the UK, and the comparison between other wealthier areas of the country, proved to be a shocking and interesting point of study.
Payatas – After
digesting all of that, we all boarded the coach to Metro Manila to see a
community in which absolute poverty is rife. Payatas is community in the north
of Manila. It has gained notoriety not just for its poverty, but also because
it is home to one of the biggest rubbish mountains in the country. The mountain
towers about the community, and is controversial for two main reasons: 1). the
growth of the mountain has led to the government forcibly evicting local
residents, 2). large sections of the rubbish mountain collapsed in 2000,
killing 218 people.
We were guided around the community by some local volunteer
health workers, who gave us a real insight into the lives of some of the local
people. It was surreal to be passing by shacks, all the time seeing the large
rubbish mountain dominating the skyline.
Like much of the Philippines, unemployment is high in
Payatas. Many of the local people thus turn to scavenging, going on daily trips
to the rubbish mountain searching for any items that can be sold on. What might
already sound like a difficult job recently became tougher when the government
sold on the rights to the rubbish mountain to a local colonel. He has since
started charging local people to access the mountain, and has struck up deals
with the local recycling/scrap businesses so as to cut out the actual
scavengers from the negotiating table. One local resident told me that this has
led to a drop in wages, with scavengers now only earning about 40 Pesos per day
(about 60 pence) for their tough work. I find it hard to believe that someone
can charge the poorest of the poor to scavenge through public waste (which let’s
not forget, has been dumped in the local residents’ community). Such an
advanced form of capitalism was previously unknown to me!

Those who do not scavenge often turn to crime or
prostitution. In both these situations, it is again the poor who suffer. Thefts
primarily take place within the community, so the poor are stealing from the
poor. Prostitutes have most of their earnings taken by pimps, and those that
engage in cyber sex take home only 6-10% of the money paid by the watcher,
whilst the person owning the computer and webcam walks away with the vast
majority.
The wealth divide between the rich and poor Filipinos was
highlighted during our short trip to Manila. After visiting Payatas we stopped
off at a very posh and clean SM shopping mall. SM malls are the biggest
shopping complexes I have ever seen, and are full of lots of designer clothes
shops and restaurants. The malls seem a world away from the surroundings of
Payatas. Indeed, a resident of Payatas would barely be able to afford the
transport fee to the mall, let alone a cheap burger there (which, incidentally
would cost about the same as an entire day’s work rummaging through rubbish).
Residents of Payatas would joke that they have their own “SM” – their Smoky
Mountain. I’m glad they can find humour in their situation, but it really is
sad to see the contrast between the two worlds, just a 30 minute bus ride
apart.
Anyway, I returned home feeling very happy at the way I
spent my 29th birthday. It was a fascinating day, I certainly learnt
a lot about poverty and the human spirit. Some of the residents of Payatas were
really inspiring, doing so much in the face of many challenges. They were so
strong and had a real “goodness” about them. I hope that I will have the
opportunity to visit them again sometime in the future. It was also a rare
privilege to play my part as a group supervisor on this day, helping young
people get more of an understanding of poverty. I hope that I’ll be doing
similarly useful things during my future birthdays!
Phew, a bit of a long one this week – well done for reading
this far! Lots of love and best wishes,
Robert
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